breaking bridges

Lessons of Nepal

(to be continued)

9. Tread lightly

My experience trekking thus far has been great. Tons of fun really, and I’m stoked to announce that the plan is to head out this week to attempt making it to Annapurna Base Camp! But that’s just a sidenote. Really, I realized that I left a vital story out of my explanation of my last trekking experience, and I couldn’t let that happen now could I?

On the last day of our trek a couple weeks back (from Gorhepani to Nyapul) we went down a lot of stairs. A LOT of stairs. Huge stairs (similar to the ones we’d gone up the day before, except this time going a mile down, of course). Fortunately, most of our descent was over by lunchtime, and after a quick stop we were on our way again, following the river as we approached Nyapul and our final destination: Pokhara.

At one point, it came time to cross the river. It was a small river, more of a stream, really (since it’s not yet monsoon season) and there were four beams of bamboo tied together and stretched across as a bridge to allow trekkers to safely cross. Of course, nearly everyone crossed over without an issue, so when it came to my turn, I figured it really shouldn’t be that bad. (Though admittedly I was a little concerned considering my lack of coordination, but hey – everyone else handled it without a problem, right?)

False. Inconveniently when I went to cross the bridge, the bamboo piece I stepped on in trust that it would help me to the other side… well, broke. Suddenly I was on my hands and knees, awkwardly holding on in hopes of not completely falling into the water below. Yup, broke the bridge. (Don’t you worry, no injuries, some sunglasses swept away, and a little water in the shoes later all was fine and we were off once again.) Solid, chubs.

welcome to the himalayas!!

So the updates I have are slightly old news – but news nevertheless! Two weeks ago, we all spent two weeks trekking, adventuring, and living in a village – providing an experience that demonstrated an entirely different side of Nepal than what Kathmandu has to offer.

Day one: bus ride

Our journey began with the long bus ride to Pokhara – one that was a bit eye-opening to be honest. We passed several accidents on our way down the windy road, including one where a truck and a bus full of people were involved in a head-on collision. Sure, traffic isn’t quite as scary as you start to get outside of the Kathmandu valley, but we all began to question whether or not the roads out there were any safer. On a lighter note, we all enjoyed a dinner “out on the town” in touristy Pokhara – a city surrounding a lake with the beautiful Himalayas providing a perfect backdrop to the scene.

Day two: plane rides = scary times

It was an early morning. We all got up before the sun and headed to the nearby Pokhara airport to catch our flight to Jomsom, a village surrounded by some of the most magnificent mountains I’ve ever seen. (Its times like that, looking a the ridiculously huge mountains where I find myself thinking “Am I seriously here? In Nepal?!”)

Before the flight, we had been substantially informed that it would likely be a bumpy ride. (We were taking a STAL plane – a bit of an unfortunate name to denote its “Swift Takeoff And Landing”.) Our little group of eleven students and five gurus took up nearly the entire seating capacity, and before we knew it, we were off! The views were spectacular, and we flew through just as the sun began to peek over the mountains. We arrived safely in Jomsom, and of course it wasn’t until a couple of days later that we found out just how bumpy our flight had been. Apparently we were the first and last flight that day, and it was a few days before any other flights were allowed to land in Jomsom. I guess that’s why the only flight attendant was looking a bit worried, tightly grasping her armrests. And I thought Minaji (one of our three beloved Nepali instructors) was just looking so worried because she was particularly afraid of heights.

After our arrival in Jomsom we took a very dusty jeep ride to our daalbhaat stop and took a hike up to Muktinath – one of the most sacred pilgrimage sites for Hindus and Buddhists alike. There’s a natural spring that feeds its 108 fountains, and it’s said that one who goes under each and sprinkles the icy cold water on their head will receive salvation. After our lunch break, the trekking began. First stop: Kagbeni. Coming across the village seemed somehow surreal to me. One minute we were in the middle of what felt like a dusty wasteland (conveniently surrounded by completely majestic mountains) until we came to a ridge that overlooked the little village nestled in the valley. After our arrival, a few of us decided to hike up one of the little mountains overlooking the town, and after passing by a few mountain goat herders, we made it to the top – and the view was well worth it.

Day three: trekking and apple pie

The day began with another jeep ride followed by a trek to Marpha – famous for its apples, apple pies, and apple brandy. The trek was pretty uneventful, mostly following a dirt road. But the village was quaint, and its cobblestone road could be followed from one end of the village to the other in a matter of several minutes. (Of course, when walking down the road you’re always slowed a bit by all of the venders trying to sell their dried apples and yak wool scarves.)

We stopped by one of the little lodges to get the “best apple pie in town” – a big claim – and as delicious as it was, it turned out that we had an even better one at the lodge we stayed that night. We ended up staying at the same place as a group of very excited German trekkers who’d just completed their proposed route doing a great deal of the Annapurna circuit. Also – an important note – we had a special meal of chowmein to mix up the daalbhaat menu! I should probably mention: trekking in Nepal is a bit different from what you’d imagine backpacking is like in the States. Here, you travel from village to village, and upon arrival you find yourself a guesthouse to stay at. Rooms are cheap (about $3-$6 a night) and the house aama will be happy to cook up something for you in their restaurant – a main source of income, I’m sure.

Day four: arrival at the gau

After a bit more exploring of the gau (village), we were off again. This time we trekked to our more permanent destination, Tukche. Our group spent several nights there, each of us with a respective family in the village. Tukche is a beautiful village providing an incredible view of Dhaulagiri – the seventh highest mountain in the world at 26,794ft. (Yeah, let that sink in for a minute.)

Though its a much less populated area than Marpha or Jomsom, and (as we discovered through interviews and a bit of research done during our time there) since a “main” dirt road has been built that runs right through the village, many trekkers don’t actually trek the stretch that would require them to stop in Tukche. With so many people resorting to jeeps or even planes, business for Tukche’s guesthouses is sparse, and nothing like it was in the past. The village seems to be dwindling, with more and more people moving away for their education or work opportunities and not returning. The road has made it easy for supplies and medicine to be brought in, but it has also brought about a whole new set of challenges for the village.

We were each introduced to our host families on the first day – and all of us were a bit nervous at first, just like our first introductions to our Kathmandu families that admittedly seem so long ago. Communication was clearly difficult right off the bat, namely because most villagers speak a Thakali, the local village language, and Nepali isn’t their native tongue. The thick accent that results means our struggling language skills were put that much more to the test, but the fact that virtually no one in the village spoke English also meant that we got a lot of practice.

The family I lived with only consisted of my older sister, or “didi”. The sweetest, most adorable thing ever, she was always trying to offer me chiyaa and sitting at the little table raised just off the floor as I studied my Nepali homework – both of us huddled under our scarves trying to keep warm. I still haven’t established if she could actually speak very much Nepali, most communication we were able to take part in was only done through some of the village children that would come over for dinner – and by translation, I mean me speaking to them in Nepali and them speaking to her in Nepali (I think), and her understanding them much better than me. (Shows how bad my accent must be!)

We continued language lessons in the morning, and went between interviews/observation of village life and hiking around the surrounding hills in the afternoon. It just so happened that we were in the village during Holi – a widely celebrated holiday among Hindus. The “festival of colors,” as it’s sometimes known by, is very popular in larger cities, but in the village it’s celebrated a bit differently. Children all have the day off school, and they take advantage of the free time by filling bottles and little spray guns with “colored” water and spraying it at people. Either that, or they’ll just swipe a handful of colorful powder across your face (as was my experience – and there’s a bit of a story here. One kid walked up to Juni as the two of us were walking back to our houses, and nicely reached up to put a dot of color on her forehead, just like when you receive a tikka. Of course, when the kid came up to me, he proceeded to dot my forehead then swipe the color across my face, leaving a huge purple smudge for all the other kids to laugh at. At that point, I realized there were a lot of children and a lot of colors, and it was time to run.)

For the adults in the village, Holi meant the beginning of a fourteen-day long festival of archery competitions, brandy, and momos. (Momos are little dumplings filled with curried veggies or meat, and I must say the homemade ones made and given out at the archery competition were probably the best I’ve had since I’ve been in Nepal.) Of course, it’s an interesting situation when the three are combined, and probably not the smartest either. Ke garne! (What to do!)

Since the entire village only took about ten minutes to walk from one end to another, it gave us students the opportunity to visit each other’s homestays a little easier. Of course, visiting each other’s houses means getting served chiyaa (either black or milk tea) everywhere you go. Like in Kathmandu, the villagers were very much in the mindset of “guest means god”, but here that means piling on the rice and daalbhaat even higher, and it also means serving tea. Lots and lots and lots of tea. Fortunately, the daal in the village was particularly good, which we were all thankful for since it was typically the only thing that was served.

It was funny how by the end of our village stay, our lives back in Kathmandu seemed so luxurious and civilized. Personally, I was a little excited to get back to a warmer, clean bed without rats running through the walls and ceilings, knocking down little pieces of dirt onto my pillow all night long. That’s not to mention the lack of western toilets – especially with our weak American stomachs, you start to really dislike squat toilets when you’re sick.

Before we knew it, our time in the village was over and it was time to say our goodbyes. We began with a jeep ride, then continued on the route by foot until we arrived to Tatopani “hot water”. The village felt tropical, with greenery and trees surrounding the little guesthouses scattered across the hill – a big change of scenery. It was raining by the time we got there, but after a bit it cleared up and we made our way down to the natural hot springs where you could pay 50rps or so to take a dip.

Maathi!!

The next day was when the “real” trekking began. Chandra (another one of our incredible Nepali language gurus) informed us that it was all uphill. Very uphill. Maybe it was just me, but I think I greatly underestimated him at first. But as we began, there were several forks in the trail, and as we’d stop to ask Chandraji or Dandaai which direction to go, the answer was always the same – “maathi!” (A universal Nepali term covering translations for “up, upstairs, and above”. Regardless not necessarily good news when it comes to trekking.)

That morning, we set out to make it from Tatopani to Gorhepani – a trek that involved going up over a mile in elevation, mostly by climbing a great deal of stairs built into the side of the mountain. (And these aren’t normal stairs, by the way. These are huge stairs. Stairs that occasionally make you wonder if your leg is just going to give out underneath you as you ascend up the next couple of feet.) Certainly a challenge, especially with a heavy backpack, the feeling of accomplishment when we finally made it to Gorhepani was incredible. The next morning we got up early enough to climb up Poon Hill, another four hundred foot elevation increase, to see the sunrise over Annapurna.

But that morning, there, amidst the breathtaking sights of sunrise – we found out some heart wrenching news. Kaleigh was a bit behind us after being pulled aside by Chandra that morning. She ended up making it up the mountain in record time, but when she arrived she told us what no one could’ve expected. Her father had died, and she was going home. Everyone seemed to be in shocked for awhile – then it came time to establish what we were going to do. But wasn’t a difficult decision to make, we were all, as a group, going to combine the next two days’ treks into one, making it back to Pokhara by that evening.

Of course, what goes up must come down, and after our journey down the hill from Gorhepani to Nayapul – ahead of us was a trail with over a mile down in elevation - down one gigantic set of stairs. By the end our knees were shaky and I don’t think I’ve ever been so happy to sit down for some daalbhaat and chowmein. We made it all the way down to Nayapul and then took a short taxi ride back to our starting spot in Pokhara. Back to some kind of civilization, we all got a much-needed hot shower and a good meal before we were to head back to the city. Fortunately, getting back a day early, Kaleigh got a flight to Kathmandu, then back to the US the very next day – and I still can’t get over the strength she showed as we trekked down the valley all day long.

So suddenly it was time to go back to Kathmandu – a trip within a trip worthy to be remembered.

“Never let your schoolwork get in the way of your education”

I’ve made a few short references to the fact that weekend adventures are easy to come by and so much better than sitting around Kathmandu. And after a week of having Nepali classes kick our butts and experiencing extreme exhaustion from city/Nepali life, it’s good to get “away”.

So last weekend, a few of us decided to meet up with our friend Amrit who lives here in Kathmandu. He took us to Nagarjun, a national park a short taxi ride outside of Thamel. Of course (in typical Nepali style) we came across a couple stumbling blocks and things didn’t go quite as planned, but after some negotiating we were able to get in and we began a hike up the “hill”. Nearly the entire trek was up a set of rather steep stairs (a strange concept… switchbacks of stairs leading all the way up a mountain). And we even passed by several Nepalis adding to the stair construction.

Up, up, and up we went, and eventually we made it to the top – on what turned out to be arguably the clearest day since our arrival to Kathmandu. With the Himalayas lining the horizon to the left and the entire Kathmandu valley scattered to the right, the view was gorgeous. There was a Buddhist temple at the top, hundreds of prayer flags strung all around the haven that made us feel miles outside the city. After an impromptu nap in the grass, we were back on our way and after a quick stop in Thamel, Jack, Nikki and I (again, as an impromptu decision) decided to hop in a cab to meet up with several other students in Nagarkot in the hills on the edge of the valley.

We arrived just as the sun was setting, and wandered a bit til we found the guest house where the rest of our group had checked in. A meal of Tibetan Thukpa (noodle soup) and some delicious crepes later, we met up with everyone and listened to a bit of a guitar and drum concert (by candle light, thank you loadshedding) by the men who owned the hotel decided to put on for us – an impressive performance (American songs and all).

We got up early the next morning to find that we were locked inside the guesthouse (the metal garage-type door was pulled down and everyone else was still asleep). So we proceeded to find a back door and do a bit of fence hopping so we could hike up the road to another guesthouse overlooking the Himalayas. We sat down for some Nepali chiyaa (tea) and waited in awe as the sun slowly came up over the snow-capped peaks. Pretty surreal. (And, as a side note, my first glimpse of Everest was also a momentous occasion.)

We hopped on a couple busses and after getting to Kathmandu, we decided to head to Bhouda, the Tibetian district with our new favorite café. It overlooks the Bhouda stupa, a beautiful white dome completely encircled by restaurants and shops selling countless beads, jewelry, scarves, and trinkets. Weekend? Success.

So on Monday, it’s off to Annapurna. Two weeks of trekking, a rural village homestay, and more Nepali lessons as we head to the mountainous region and travel through the deepest gorge in the world. Excited? YES!

nagarjun; view from the top

sunrise over the Himalayas

Bhouda stupa, view from the cafe

nepali lessons & elephant rides

I cannot believe how fast time flies! Catching up on the past couple of weeks is a task that’s beyond daunting, but now that I’ve come to think of it, there are some pretty basic lessons I’ve learned in Nepal but haven’t shared, so before anything else I think its time I get a few things out in the open:

Lessons of Nepal

(To Be Continued)

1. Kathmandu is great, don’t get me wrong, but getting out of Kathmandu for a weekend of adventure that is way to easy to access?

Way better.

2. Elephants are cooler in person than you’d imagine.

And harrier.

3. Regardless of the seemingly endless supplies of energy/water from the Himalayas, Nepal receives virtually none of its own resources.

Translation: “load shedding”, or power outages are up to sixteen hours a day, every day, in the city and hot showers are a treat.

4. People spit in Nepal.

Now I’m not talking a little “ptew” off to the side when nobody’s looking. No, I’m talking about everyone, yes even old women, hacking up crap left and right,and often times planting it inches from your feet as you play human “frogger” trying to cross the street while keeping all limbs intact.

5. Nepal = dhaal baat.

I know this means repeating myself, but its pretty incredible to live in a placewith one staple food item. Rice and lentils anyone?

6. Chaarpi (bathroom) in Nepal is an interesting term.

On really exciting/rare occasions, you’ll come across a western toilet with toilet paper. If this is the case: celebrate! Though more often than not, you’ll befortunate enough to experience a squat toilet (which require some getting used to, but really aren’t that bad), or if you’re really lucky – a tarp on the side of the road! That’s right, three sides mostly blocking a little ravine from the sight of cars driving by, and the third opened up to the Nepali hills in the distance. At least there’s a view, yeah?

7. It’s wedding season.

Don’t be alarmed if there’s a full-blown band on the street in front of your house at five in the morning.

8. Enjoy the music as described in point “7”. It should be recognized as a welcome relief to the dog fights and roosters crowing.

Not too far back, our group of SIT students headed out of the hustle and bustle of Kathmandu for a week in Chitwan, a national park in the terai. It’s pretty incredible what kind of drastic differences Nepal’s geography includes. The terai is a flat, almost desert-like region, completely different from the mountainous Himals most would match up with their beautiful mental image of this tiny haven between India and Tibet.

We spent each morning similarly to any other back in Kathmandu – with two and a half hours of Nepali lessons. The language has consistently been a challenge, and it is constantly overwhelming to keep up with what we’re learning without falling too far behind. But at this point we were all stoked to be finished with our first test. In the afternoons, we hopped on some classic Nepali bikes (i.e. no gears/super oldschool/ rusty and rickety) and road down one of the dirt roads to visit an NGO (Non-Government Organization), community forest, or microfinance group. It was pretty awesome to finally get to go and visit people and essentially interview them (practicing our research techniques) instead of just reading out of a book, “learning” about development.

With SIT, our last month will be spent researching a topic of our choice for an Independent Study Project, so the last few weeks have involved plenty of scrambling for sources and topics for our first couple drafts of our ISP Proposal that we’ve turned in. So the field work and visiting/interviewing was definitely informative – but even more exciting was when we got dropped off between a couple of villages, left in groups of two or three students with instructions to find out about some part of these people’s lives (whether it be agriculture, water useage, etc.) Minor detail, few of them speak a word of English. So we were off to attempt our bad Nepali skills and ask as many questions as possible. Of course, with Nepali hospitality, many were more than happy to offer us a seat and answer our questions (even though we didn’t have a clue of what they were saying most of the time), and we got our first feel for jumping into the field.

Our last day of Chitwan brought along the real touristy-side of things. After an early morning of canoeing along the river dotted with alligators, we hopped on elephants for a safari through the jungle. (Pretty awesome, right?!) Unfortunately, elephants aren’t quite as comfortable as they may appear when you’re sharing the space with four other people, but the whole thing was pretty surreal regardless.

Before we knew it, we were back in the bus and on the windy road to Kathmandu.

mountainbiking nepal: off to dhulikhel!

Backtracking to a couple weeks ago, several of us were fortunate to spend our couple days free of Nepali lessons and development lectures with a weekend of adventure. We began before the sun came up on Saturday morning and headed out from Thamel to Dhulikhel. We hopped on a bus for a quick trip to our starting point and proceeded to bikeride to our stay at Borderlands; a resort on the border of Tibet. We had an incredible time dodging huge trucks, dogs, and people that make a bikeride a little more on the exciting/nerveracking/best time of your life side. Then there’s the awesome Nepali-style bathroom situation: squat “toilets”. Feel free to use your imagination but I can assure you you’re probably underestimating the smell. But sixty kilometers up and down too many hills to count, very sore butts, and a couple dhaalbaat stops later, we finally made it!

tea, traffic, temples, and more tea!

So much of Nepal is nothing like I expected. Getting off the plane, the first thing to catch your eyes is the hazy brown layer of smog hovering over the valley (just like home sweet home!). I’ve always heard that India is dirty and polluted, and I guess it never dawned on me that Nepal might be very similar (though it does makes perfect sense when you take into account India bordering three sides of Nepal). More than anything I think most people have a romanticized picture of a beautiful city surrounded on all sides by the gorgeous snow-capped Himalayas… but I’d be lying if I said I could actually see the mountains I know are out there somewhere.

Though please don’t get me wrong. Nepal is beautiful! I haven’t gotten to see much of its mountainous regions yet, but city life has been challenging, exciting, and so much fun nonetheless. The best way I know how to put it is this: imagine San Francisco with streets half as wide, buildings half as tall, zero traffic laws, countless motorcycles, dogs, and street merchants, and the dirtiness of India. That’s Kathmandu

the daily trek to and from school

Finally getting into a routine has been remarkably nice. Most mornings start by getting ready for school just as the sun is coming up. When I come downstairs Vinu never fails to greet me with a hot cup of tea and before long I’m on my way with Rebecca for the hour’s walk to school. We live in Gongabu, which is in Kathmandu, but quite a ways from the SIT program site in Naxal. The first couple of days were pretty intense – learning how to dodge traffic and navigate the maze of streets can be more challenging than it sounds! On our first walk to school, we took pictures of as many of the major street corners as possible so that we could remember our way back. Rebecca’s host father was showing us the way, but we were on our own for the walk home. Unfortunately, there’s no such thing as street signs in Nepal, which makes things a little more challenging. And that’s not to mention that everything looks the same.

We headed out from the program site, a little nervous at first, knowing that in a little over an hour it would be dark and then we really wouldn’t have a clue where we were going. Dodging cars, dogs, people, and motorcycles, we weaved through traffic and miraculously only made one wrong turn before we made it home! (That’s quite the accomplishment for anyone who knows about my sense of direction – or lack thereof.) At the end of it all, we were left with sore eyes and lumps in our throats from the pollution and dirt (we suddenly understood the popular “Kathmandu cough phrase” – but we learned our lesson… there’s a reason why all the Nepalis covers their mouths with scarves!

Evenings back at home are pretty relaxed. Between tea, studying Nepali, and attempting some conversation, at some point I’ll be given a meal of dhalbaat. (The same lentil and rice dish as mentioned before. Served every night.)

School is a lot of fun… and its impressive how much easier it is to learn a language when you really have motivation to do so. (Each lesson makes conversation that evening that much easier.) But that’s not to say that it isn’t pretty intense. We have two and a half hours of Nepali every morning (don’t worry – a tea break in between!) followed by guest lecturers or some kind of excursion in the area. Overall, they’re long, exhausting days.

On Friday, we went to Pashupatinath, the second most famous Hindu temple in the world. And honestly, it’s hard to describe in words.

It was warm when we went, and the whole area was smokey and dusty. It was heartbreaking to see the poorest people there, washing in the murky river that ran alongside the temple we were approaching. Unable to go inside without being Hindu, we went around the backside where there were several sections of cement jutting out over the river, each with a woodpile burning (explaining the intense smoke). Under each woodpile was a body. People were everywhere, crowded around as their family members were being cremated right there. I didn’t really know what to think. Interestingly, the men whose parents had passed wear all white and shave their heads, and we were instructed not to touch or make physical contact with anyone since in this time of morning, they are considered unclean.

Pashupatinath was quite the learning experience, and definitely incredible to see. (On a sidenote – beautiful architecture!) And it was amazing to see so many Hindus from all over. (Of course, as usual, our group of Americans stuck out like a sore thumb.) But on a lighter note, that evening after classes we took advantage of our first real free time and headed to explore Thamel, the “tourist district” in Kathmandu. We got our hands on some pizza (surprisingly delicious after a week of dhalbaat) and enjoyed the night to ourselves with a taste of American food.

cremations. live cremations. a little intense. and smokey.

Of course, now that this is actually getting posted, school’s getting more intense but our first ISP proposal (our attempt at planning our research project that will be taking over the last month of our studies in Nepal) is officially finished. Such a relief!

Namaste!

It’s incredible to believe that I’ve been here for ten days. I have mixed feelings on the matter – I really can’t decide if it feels like I just got off the plane or if I’ve been here forever. A week and a half ago, on January 27 2011, I officially departed the United States for a semester studying in Nepal and a summer of traveling and interning in Bangladesh. After months of deciding, planning, and packing, it was difficult to believe the time had come to begin the adventure. With granola bars, my camera, good wishes and prayers from family and friends, and a heavy backpack in hand – I was finally ready to go.

Over seventeen hours of airplane food next to a large snoring man, a layover in Thailand, and a quick flight over the Himalayas later, I landed in Kathmandu, Nepal. After weaving through the hustle and bustle of men offering taxis, car rides, hotels, and even houses I was able to make it over the group of Americans crowded around a huge pile of luggage. There are two SIT study abroad groups here in Nepal, so before long the directors arrived and we were split into our respective sections. Our group loaded into a big van and began the hour and a half drive to Pharping, a village in the hills on the edge of the Kathmandu valley.

We spent four days in orientation at the “resort” where our eleven-student group received seemingly endless information on safety, health, travel, homestays, school, and the Nepali language. On our first morning, we got up before the sun for a hike down the hill for puja (offering) at Dakshinkali, a famous Hindu site. People travel from all over to give their offerings – all different depending on the family and situation. We received tika (red and yellow paint on the forehead) for the coconut we broke and offered. (A much less bloody option than the chickens and goats they were killing right in front of us.) Then, as we walked out, there were lines of bells to be rung along the walkway. It was a lot to take in and a little intense, but a really beautiful beginning to the trip.

A couple of days later we had our first opportunity to go exploring in a Nepali city. We were given the assignment locating at temple in the area and learning as much as possible about it. Of course, it would’ve been a little easier if anyone on the streets spoke English, but with lots of hand signals and some basic Nepali words we were able to successfully make it to a beautiful temple on the hill. We hiked up the steep steps and got ripped off by the woman at the top who charged us way too much for the candles she sold, but we were successful nonetheless.

From our stay in Pharping you could see a mountain strung up and down with what appeared to be telephone wires. When you get closer, you can see that the “wires” are actually thousands and thousands of beautiful prayer flags that have been carried up the hill and strung through the trees, all the way to the top of the mountain.

On Wednesday morning, it was time to head back into Kathmandu to be introduced to the program site where we have class each morning. The school is actually a converted house, and it gives a homey feel that was much welcomed from the freezing (and admittedly uncomfortable) setup in Pharping. I must say, the cold is something I didn’t come prepared for. It definitely gets warm during the day, but with all the buildings made out of concrete, no heating systems, and poor insulation, being indoors is often colder than being outside. And at night, the only real option is to bundle up with layers of leggings, socks, jackets, and blankets. But back to the point – after a tour of the location and introductions to the on-site staff, we all got ready to be picked up by our homestay families.

We were all a little nervous, and regardless of the days of orientation it was nearly impossible to know what to expect. It felt a lot like being a child at an orphanage, anxiously waiting to see what kind of parents would soon arrive to pick us up. And of course with only three days of Nepali under our belts, there was really no telling of whether we’d even be able to communicate with our new families!

Finally, it was time for introductions. My daai (older brother) Manav arrived. We all offered our new family members chia (tea) and then headed off to our new homes. Manav came on his motorcycle (a very common form of transportation here) so me and Rebecca (an SIT student whose homestay is in the same neighborhood) followed in a taxi.

I really couldn’t have asked for a better family. Manav lived in the United States for eight years, so he’s fluent in English (very convenient at times when I really need to give or receive vital information). Also in the house live mother and father (aama ra baa), Manav’s wife Vinu, and a helping girl. They live on a flat above a daycare (yes, that means I walk right through a playground of adorable toddlers before getting inside). On the first floor is the kitchen, living area, and aama and baa’s room, and outside on the terrace there’s a set of stairs that lead to the next floor where I have my own room and bathroom next door to Manav and Vinu. The view is incredible. There doesn’t seem to be a spare inch of space in the city, and being so high up I can see flats just like ours in all directions.

After he showed me around the house, we sat down for tea then Manav walked me down the road a ways and showed me the little shoe store he just opened. I walked back to the house with his wife and went inside to sit on the couch with aama. That’s about the time I truly felt like an exchange student. Like I said, Manav speaks fluent English, but the rest of his family doesn’t speak more than a couple of basic words like “friend, mother” and “father”. The awkwardness began to set in as we sat there, looking around. Aama would sporadically speak to me in Nepali, and I would do my best to pick up a word here or there until without much luck. We began pointing things out in the room and labeling them in each of our languages and eventually I ran up to my room and grabbed my Nepali dictionary and notebook in an effort to actually put together a couple of sentences, but I have a feeling my accent is so bad she probably didn’t understand a word I said.

After awhile I sat outside by a little makeshift fire and through a bit of sign language Vinu offered me dinner. Figuring the rest of the family would be joining, I agreed and was sat down at the table with a big pile of rice (baat) and little bowls of chicken and dhal (lentils). I tried to explain that I could wait to eat, but she insisted and proceeded to sit across from me, watching intently as I tried all of the food and attempted to express my gratitude (mostly through facial expressions). Before long it was time for bed and I’d officially made it through my first night with the fam.

The view of Kathmandu from right outside the door of my room!